
Until I’d been home for a couple of days from my most recent magical vacation, I didn’t realize we’d forgotten to take our traditional feet photo. That omission from this most amazing trip surprised me, because my two adult children, now forty-five and almost forty, didn’t forget to snag our other traditional photo, the two of them standing on a shoreline, holding hands, looking out on a beautiful horizon. I have a ton of those pictures.

Those old photos were primarily taken at Lake Michigan or on the Gulf of MEXICO, (capitals deliberately selected), which were the places where we most frequently traveled together as a family. This time they were gazing at the Pacific Ocean.

This special trip to Hawaii, my last unvisited state in the U.S., was a gift from my kids for my 75th birthday. I never had a life goal of seeing all 50 states, but over the years, I realized I’d managed to visit every one but that faraway and very expensive one. So when this idea was hatched I was really excited. But no feet photo.

I suppose we could say that given Michael’s long nine year absence from our daily lives, we just forgot about the picture. But considering how much the three of us still talk about him, and continue to feel robbed by his unexpectedly early demise, I’m surprised we didn’t get our photo. At one point, I’d even pointed the camera at my toes in the shallows, trying to get a shot of them in the water, but I was distracted by the waves knocking me off balance. Oh well. I have to say that’s the only disappointment about this trip, so reminiscent of the one we took as a family of four, to New Mexico, twenty one years ago.

Before I continue this story, let me clarify a few key points about family travel. When I was growing up, my family of origin took a grand total of one vacation. Even then, my two older siblings were not included as they were already away from home, my sister in college and my brother in the Air Force. Limited finances were certainly the major factor in our stay-at-home lifestyle. Still, my parents were not much interested in seeing the world. My older sister described their existence as “life on the couch.” In any case, our one family vacation, which included my parents, me and my younger sister, was a driving trip from Chicago to Mackinac Island. I was twelve. I remember so much about it. Buttered toast brought to our table in a diner seemed so exotic and especially tasty. I still love the taste of hot buttered toast in a restaurant. And the fun of buying giant cherries at a roadside fruit stand, the purple juice staining our fingers as we ate them in the car, right out of the cartons. And riding in a horse-drawn carriage around the island which had banned motor vehicles. I remember feeling like I was in the olden days, truly seeing another time. Cheap thrills, I guess. In any event, I was determined that when I had a family, we’d have a lot more than one vacation, difficult family finances or not. My kids would experience more than I did. And so we traveled.

My in-laws lived in Florida on the Gulf side so we had a place to stay when we went there. Many of our earliest vacations revolved around that free housing. But we went other places, too. Amusement parks. Water parks. Historical sites. For several years we joined old friends and their families at an old fashioned resort, staying in cabins that looked straight out of another era, dingy and just this side of modern, a place that bordered a lake and which was like an extended family camp.

I really don’t know what I expected from these vacations. Some imaginary, idealized perfection I thought I’d missed out on as a stay-at-home kid? Maybe…but the truth was that our many ambitious adventures often left me crying in a corner. The kids, five years apart, each had their own opinions about what was fun, usually diametrically opposed to each other’s, and they bickered and argued a lot. Michael would get annoyed and lose his temper. I got sick of everything, breaking up arguments between the kids and trying to stop Michael from making irrational statements about never taking any family trips again. Didn’t these people realize they were stomping on my attempts to give them what I didn’t have? And was that even their fault? Probably not. They were busy living their current lives, not my old one. And, in truth, the trips weren’t all bad. They were just real life which didn’t always match my dreamy vacation aspirations. All those disappointments lessened as the kids matured. And our family dynamics were helped along by a key choice made by our daughter after she graduated from college.




She had gone off to school in Wisconsin in the fall of 1999, when she was 18 and her brother almost 13. There were visits home during the next four years as well as family visits to see her. Time seemed to whiz by. And then she graduated. Next up for her was her lifelong goal of law school. But during her university years, she had a revelation. The sibling spats of childhood were mostly over between our two kids, but the physical distance and their busy schedules didn’t leave much time for either of them to really know learn about each other as the people they were becoming. Michael and his older sister were never able to have a successful adult relationship, a big disappointment for him. Our daughter didn’t want to repeat that history. So in order to build a stronger bond with her little brother, she enrolled in law school right in our own hometown. In the fall of 2003, the whole family was back on the same turf for the first time in four years. During our son’s remaining two years of high school life, our busy law student showed up to all his soccer games and basketball games, lugging her computer and law books with her. She’d come over to our house to hang out with him and his friends. In time, they became a major sibling success story. And then poof – when our son graduated from high school in June, 2005, we were suddenly down to just a couple of months left together before he headed off to college in another state.

In addition, our daughter had met and fallen in love with the guy who was clearly going to become her life partner. So we planned what we felt would likely be our last family of four trip ever, to New Mexico to stay at the Wind River Ranch, where one of our oldest friends, a conservation biologist and his family, lived and worked. There was plenty of room for all of us. We’d be able to slow down, relax, hang out in nature, and periodically rouse ourselves to explore the remnants of the Santa Fe trail and various other historic locations in the vicinity. So off we went.



I wish I could accurately describe the reasons why this trip became such an outstanding experience. The words spirit and rhythm come to mind first. At home, the four of us were in our own unique spaces, coping with the challenges of truly divergent daily lives. Michael was 56, currently in his second full year of his second career as a high school history teacher. After almost three decades of owning an independent record store and being his own boss, he was adapting to being part of an organization. He was also working very hard, developing his own unique approach to what would ultimately become his life’s true vocation. His passion for U.S. history was big and he was hoping this big mid-life move was going to be successful . I was 54, in my 27th year of my job as an assessment official. I was like the hub of our wheel, holding the center while the rest of the family was going into new parts of their lives. I didn’t mind. Soon we’d be kidless at home. Michael and I had ten years together before we’d had children, so we figured we could remember that experience and adjust well to the proverbial empty nest. For me, the hardest part of the changes was not being able to call Michael all day long at work, to share every interesting thought I had with him. The school day squashed that luxury. Meanwhile, our daughter was a year away both from finishing law school with both a career on the horizon and a new life as someone’s partner. And our son was getting ready for college in the fall, leaving the familiar cocoon of home and old friends for a brand new experience. The four of us, with all these adjustments to make, piled into the car. Somehow or other, with a minimum of hassling and disagreements, we rolled west, taking turns choosing from Michael’s house favorites CD’s as our musical accompaniment, and playing the classic car geography and license plates games to occupy our brains.


Despite all of our diverse concerns and often widely-diverging opinions, we seemed to quickly settle into this unusual shared harmonious state. Suddenly we were just fine with doing all the same stuff. Hunting for insects of the west, a passion for our son, was good with everyone, even when the temperature approached boiling. We grabbed our nets and water bottles like it was our job. Riding the ranch horses? Great for the riders and the observers. A trip to Ft. Union? Absolutely. How about the museums of Santa Fe? No problem.


Relaxing worked too. Sometimes we didn’t do much besides reading, chatting with each other and our hosts, and admiring the beautiful landscapes, plants and wildlife.





I haven’t forgotten the annoying moments on this trip, when one of us fell out of sync with the others for a bit, wrecking the overall vibe. But a disagreement outside a museum because someone got tired of the whole pack mentality was generally a pretty fleeting event. Sometimes the younger set was frustrated with the lousy telephone reception on the ranch, particularly when they wanted to connect with their significant others, back home and so, so out of reach. But mostly, we were all good. I still remember a visit to Las Vegas, New Mexico, a nice small town with good restaurants, interesting history and a great bookstore called Tome on the Range. What was not to like? Nothing.

Ten days passed fast. I think the dominant feeling we all shared was a sense of wellbeing. And perhaps a shared awareness that this particular trip, likely the last of its kind, cemented us together as a family unit. And we appreciated it and felt lucky to be us. On the way home, we stopped at Garden of the Gods to admire the beautiful rock formations and Pike’s Peak in the background. We headed next to Cave of the Winds Mountain Park, where in the spirit of family unity, I, always a claustrophobe, was talked into going deeply underground. And despite a measure of fear, I was able to appreciate the stalactites, stalagmites and all the other highlighted geographical features, without dissolving into terror-induced spasms. We threw in a little history, paying a visit to the Ludlow Monument which honors the bloody struggle of the United Mine Workers and to the Truman Presidential Library, as all of the presidential libraries were on Michael’s U.S. History bucket list. A torrential rainstorm clobbered us as we made our way back to the real world. Then we all picked up our lives and went forward.





Years passed. All kinds of vacations happened. Sometimes Michael and I were on our own. Other times, we were with the kids, one or the other, sometimes both, often with their partners and eventually with some grandchildren. We made plenty of memories. Even after Michael died, trips continued. I went away by myself on occasion, and our whole crew managed to go back a few times to some of our traditional family places. We had many good moments. But I always remembered that incredible trip from 2005, which felt so great, every single day. When I recalled that New Mexico interlude, I would think of that old phrase, “lightning doesn’t strike the same place twice,” which I know isn’t even scientifically true, but which I felt about those special few weeks. How could we get that again, especially with Michael dead? That’s what I thought. Until now.

I admit, I had some trepidation about this Hawaii trip with my two kids. It’s been over 55 years since I’ve flown anywhere for almost nine hours. I had no idea how my body would respond to that flight which was then followed by considerable jet lag. In addition, the three of us were going to be living together for the first time in ages, and for 24 hours a day. Would we all be able to get along?


The answer to that question turned out to be a resounding yes. Like that vacation 21 years earlier, we seemed to find our rhythm pretty quickly. My kids were eager to have me see and experience pretty much anything on my to-do list. And the good news was that they really enjoyed themselves, doing my things.

From the beginning, they were game to get soaking wet on our first and only solid rain day, tramping through a beautiful but sodden botanical garden. After that, we wisely left space between our planned excursions for lolling around the pool at our hotel for rest and relaxation.

Our week was pretty packed. We went to Pearl Harbor, another beautiful botanical garden in the Waimea Valley, and to a luau with all the Hawaiian traditions. We visited a remarkable museum campus called the Bishop Museum, which is considered the premier natural and cultural history institution in the Pacific and houses the world’s largest collection of Polynesian artifacts and natural history specimens.




In what is truly ironic, all three of us had someone we knew on Oahu during this trip. We all met up with a classmate of mine, the two of us in classes as far back as elementary school. Up until this time we’d only seen each other once, at our 50th high school reunion, since 1968. We had a lovely afternoon renewing our friendship. My son got together with someone he knew from work circles and my daughter had dinner with a college classmate who’d realized they were both in the same place. Bonuses on our journey. At night my kids went out while I relaxed. I watched a lot of the U.S. Open tennis tournament and they climbed a mountain which was the most challenging hike on Oahu.

As with the New Mexico trip we had disagreements and some bickering. All of us still had our opinions which didn’t always match. But this head-bumping was generally brief and quickly supplanted by realizing we were all having this great time. I think each of us felt Michael’s presence instead of just his absence. And as our time together grew shorter, no one particularly felt like going home. For me, I was with my two surviving favorite people on the planet. The only thing calling me back was my garden. But of course, my kids both missed their partners and children. Like lightning, this long-anticipated vacation was over in a flash. Still, the family magic was still there, regardless of any negative moments and only being away for a week. Hearing your adult offspring both state that they didn’t know any other family who operated in the same close way as ours, is a gift. Michael whose family was fractured, wished for a deep, intimate connection in our little crew. And that’s what we got. He never got to see our son as a partner and a dad. That will always be sad. I will always wish he could was with me to feel and see the beauty of it. He would be beyond happy and proud.































































Here I am at age seven, standing in the grassy park that borders Lake Michigan at Rainbow Beach on the south side of Chicago. Except for our brief sojourn in Iowa from my infancy through 1st grade, I was born into a family of non-swimmers, who managed to stay out of the water despite being virtually lifetime Chicagoans. I was always clearly a water person. Sometimes you wonder how you got to be the different one in the family. I remember my parents telling me they thought I was going to be an Olympic swimmer. That was naïveté talking. For them, my voluntary entry into the frigid lake was my first step toward athletic fame. I learned how to swim adequately in that cold water and then improved somewhat in high school, where we had a pool that I mostly disliked. I always preferred swimming outside. I know how to do all of the strokes but basically, I’ve got a decent, comfortable breaststroke in addition to being an excellent floater. I’d never win a race, even when I was young. But I have endurance and can last a long time in the water.















He convinced me that we should go back to Lakeside as he’s heading out west soon, and we’d have a chance for one more special time together. I made the reservations, worried that I’d get up there and cry the whole time. I wound up doing my crying in advance. I looked through all the old photos with a combination of joy and love, nostalgia and pain. I got worn out but in a good way.









































































Meanwhile, I’m back in the routine of these past five plus months. But I’ve replenished my soul a bit and additionally, my supply of rocks for the garden project of the winter months.
#reneerocks


























